Food Revolution - Part 3

Yep, still talking about food here.....  I want to share a little bit about the wider variety of food available here.  The small city of 28,000 where I reside is an aimag center, like a state capital.  We are located a mere 7 hour bus ride from Ulanbataar all on the paved road!  We get a good variety of foods, but not nearly as much as the big city.


Though I like to eat local food, it's just not so possible here.  In this part of the country, there's not much water and what grows well is the usual desert scrub grass and plants; not exactly edible fare.  Meat and dairy products fresh, not so tasty in my opinion.


What is local that I consume is flour, bread (made in a factory in my town), yogurt, and some potatoes, carrots, cabbage and onions.  Much of the produce for sale locally is imported from China. Although Mongolia in general does not like China (the old hard feelings passed down from generations when China ruled Mongolia), much of the fresh goods, including fruits and veggies come from there and are purchased and enjoyed here.


In the past two years, I've noticed an influx of imported foods.  My favorite cheese is imported from Luxembourg, corn flakes from Thailand, instant coffee hails from Germany as do the hot dogs in a jar, tuna- Netherlands, crackers imported from Malaysia, and most of the fresh fruit from China.  The fruit in jars, like that below come from Russia, as do many of the spices I buy.

jar fruit from Russia, fresh from China, blueberries from USA

some of the latest available items in Arvaikheer

One of my newest discoveries here is sour cream.  It was in one store last summer and only this month has resurfaced in our city.  A small one sells for about a dollar (the little carton on it's side in bottom photo), but worth the price!  I now have a stock pile, just in case!


Raisins here are tricky.... Many packaged varieties are available and imported from various places.  The cheapest ones are dangerous, as there are sometimes tiny pebbles in the package, along with the raisins.  The story goes that many a PC volunteer has broken a tooth on these tasty treats....


The corn flakes are a welcome treat to me!  I love crunchy foods and this cereal is a wonder of crispy deliciousness!


The organic flour is a new item on the scene and is actually made in Mongolia!!!!  


I certainly don't starve here, though there are many foods I miss and crave and can't wait to indulge in upon my return to the USA..... yep, that's my next blog...coming soon:)

Food Revolution- Part 2

pasta with homemade pesto

spicy pad thai with fresh cilantro

vegetarian buuz  with chunky tomato sauce

eggs with bacon bits, fresh tomato and broccoli sprouts

lovely fresh salad from my garden with freshly made croutons, served with feta cheese and Good Seasons Italian dressing made with balsamic vinegar, accompanied by fresh hummus and flat bread

I find that I spend a lot of time with food.  Thinking about it, shopping for it, cooking it, eating it and enjoying it.  I like to think I am an earth friendly/environment conscious person; one who wants to be part of the local food movement, eating only locally grown, produced, raised foods, but definitely not in Mongolia.  However, to do my little part, I grow lettuce, spinach, tomatoes and many herbs on my lovely south facing windowsills for my own personal enjoyment.


My food obsession (if one can actually call it that, yea probably) is nothing new.  I've always loved to eat, eat, eat, smell, touch, taste, savor and enjoy.  I attempt to live a rather healthy lifestyle overall, and to eat plenty of veggies and fruits, which though challenging, is possible in Arvaikheer.  We get a much larger variety of foods here now than we did two years ago when I first came to town.



Real cheese, as we know it in the West, is available here in Arvaikheer, at least some of the time...Mostly it's Elam or Gouda cheese, which have a nice texture and a milder taste.  Very expensive indeed, going for close to $6 a pound or more, it's a worthwhile extravagance on the PC budget.  Homemade mac and cheese, with a white sauce and cheese added is a lovely option, as well as grilled cheese and just plain old cheese and crackers.  They don't call it cheese, glorious cheese for nothing.  Usually I buy a big hunk, cut it and freeze some and enjoy the rest very quickly!!!!


Cereal, the crunchy, crispy kind I enjoy has now come to town.  At first, no sign of such luxuries; we had to wait for a trip to the city for cereal other than mushy bitter oatmeal.  Now we regularly get Corn Flakes, Froot Loops and a nice Granola cereal as well.  These are also pricey but worth the cost!  I just finished a lovely bowl of corn flakes, with milk and a fresh banana for breakfast!  Yum:)  


We are very fortunate in our town that fruits are available year round, with apples and oranges being the staples.  Warmer weather brings fresh bananas, kiwi, grapes, pineapple, plums and peaches.  Fruit in jars in heavy syrup are available most any time in stores.  


These photos illustrate some of my culinary creations and a good sampling of what I like to make and eat.  Soups are a favorite of mine as well and though beans are not usually found in town, I stock up when I go to the city and I cook large pots of soups, freezing some for later . 


Pizza is a tough to find item here, and there is only one restaurant in town that makes it, though it's not always available.  The crust is nice and crispy, not too thin, heavy on the cheese and the toppings are good, yet odd combinations.  The house specialty pizza has bacon, chicken, peppers, onions and sliced peaches (from a "tin") and is quite delicious.  The veg pizza has any number of veggies on it, depending on availability; sometimes there is even corn (yes, kernels of canned corn sprinkled on it) as well as kidney beans and even sliced pickles!  Surprising what you can learn to enjoy!


This is just a small glimpse into my world of food in Mongolia...expect more to come on one of my favorite topics!

Food Revolution - Part 1- Mongolian Food

I love food, always have, always will.  At times in my life I've been thinner, more health conscious, more physically active, but my love and enjoyment of food never wavers.  What food revolution you may be asking?  Well, mine I guess.... My collision with the Mongolian foods, the ever increasing amounts and types of Westernized foods available here and what is a typical diet here versus what I generally eat.


This started out as one post, then I quickly realized that one post is not enough for me to dish up this topic.  This first installment will start at the beginning with my introduction to Mongolian food and all about the food consumed here.  Disclaimer:  if this post lacks my usual positive attitude, never fear, it's still there and will return shortly.  Food is a very serious topic!


When I initially discovered I was coming to Mongolia with the PC, one of my worries was, what's the food like?  Will I like it?  Will I gain weight?  Will I go hungry frequently?  I read the typical diet consists of meat, dairy and tea.  Having been raised on a dairy farm, I adore dairy, am a big time carnivore and tea, well ok.


My sister Sue looked up a recipe online for a dish called buuz.  (pronounced like "boats")Buuz are a little steamed dumpling made with flour and meat.  This particular version was tasty, filled with ground beef, cabbage, onion and garlic.  After tasting these, I thought...hmmm not bad!  She also made tasty little fried dough cookies and milk tea for my going away party.  What a thoughtful sister I have!  Little did I know the strong smell of mutton wafting through the air was not far ahead.


Fast forward to PC training....after the first three days I just could not stand the taste of, let alone the smell of mutton.  I quickly asked the training manager if it was too late to change to Vegetarian.  Thankfully, it was not and all summer my host family honored me by 1) not slaughtering a sheep or other animal in the yard for me and 2) fixing me vegetarian food!  Not much variety in this option, however no fatty meat!


Back to the Mongolian diet and the Mongolian National Food dishes.  There are a few, and all involve mutton and flour.  In a nomadic society, meat is the main staple.  In Mongolia herders use their animals (sheep, goat, cow, camel and horse) for many purposes including food.  With the harsh weather, especially in the winter, they believe the fat to be good for you and will help you keep warm.(I personally dispute this belief, especially seeing all the skinny Mongolians and even the not so skinny ones who constantly complain of the cold...) Thinking of the nomadic lifestyle, harsh climate and poor rocky soil, it makes sense that the most common veggies grown and used here are potatoes, carrots, onion, cabbage and some garlic thrown in.


Mutton is the most common meat available in most areas.  In the far West horse is eaten more frequently than other parts of the country (though I have eaten and liked it!), camel available more in the Gobi areas and goat and beef is around as well.  The method of slaughtering and butchering are different here as well.  For a sheep, the animal is held down, chest cut open and the heart pulled out.  Blood is not drained (so as not to spoil the ground) and the method of cutting the meat appears to be rather haphazard.  (not the steaks, roasts, chops, etc)    Huge chunks of meat, fresh in the markets and pulled out of peoples freezers to be hacked off in bits for use.  Recently at my friend Uugnaa's house, she pulled a huge hunk of meat from her freezer.  I asked her if it was mutton or what?  She didn't know, and said it was fresh when she bought it, so it didn't really matter to her.


Buuz are one of the Mongolian National Foods.  A small steamed dumpling filled with lightly seasoned meat, it can be made from mutton, goat, horse, camel or beef.  I have had all but camel while here, and in spite of my aversion to mutton (it's smell, taste and greasiness) in buuz it's not too bad.  This popular food can be found in most restaurants, as well as all the small guanzes (cafes) in towns and at little stops along the paved road.  These dumplings are especially popular at Tsagaan Sar, festival of the White Moon.  As part of the ceremony of this holiday (New Year) families make hundreds or even thousands of buuz to serve their guests.  I must add that I have concocted my own version of veggie buuz, filled with shredded veg and soy meat.


A second version of the mutton/ flour combo and another Mongolian National Food is the khuusher.(sounds like hoe-sure)  Khuusher is a  deep fried foldover stuffed with (you guessed it) mutton.  These are an integral part of the other huge national celebration, Nadaam.  Nadaam is the summer celebration featuring the three manly sports, wrestiling (my fave), archery and horse racing.  The Nadaam khusher are exceptionally large and stuffed full.  These are on every menu and vegetarian options are available in some places, most of them rather tasty.  I haven't tried making these, preferring french fries if I'm going to bother deep frying at home!


Tsuivain is a third popular dish.  (sounds like soy vin)I don't think it's called a national food, but it's available most everywhere.  The tsuivain is a noodle which my host family frequently made.  The dough is rolled out extremely thin.  It can be used fresh or dried, and is sold in almost every little delgur around.  The meat version includes lots of fatty meat mixed in with the noodles and a little veg, mostly carrot, onion, potato and seasoning.  Vegetarian versions usually include soy meat and my favorite local restaurant makes an amazing dish with a variety of veggies for around $2.50.  Ive tried making this at home and don't have the seasoning right.... hhmmm. The noodles are great in soup however!


The most famous drink here (aside from vodka which I am sooooo over!) is Tsutee Tsea, (sue tay say) or milk tea.  Traditionally this is made on a ger stove with fresh milk which doesn't boil, due to the constant dramatic ladling action.  Salt and loose tea are added.  Some folks put animal fat in for an extra added dimension, which is something I can do without.  To me, it tastes like salty warm milk with a very slight tea flavor.


So I don't care for the national foods, except in vegetarian versions and I don't care for milk tea or vodka, so what do I eat and drink here? Tune in for Food Revolution Part 2 for the answers to this and other burning questions.... 

Gardening in the Gobi...

..and other foolish ventures..Thus continues the story of my gardening in Mongolia, year two.  Last year, here in Arvaikheer. I had the plan to make a garden out of some hardscrabble weed strewn land (consisting of sand and gravel and weeds) ,though fenced in areas in front of the school dormitory.  This was a mutual goal and part of my work plan between myself and my school director and man was I excited!!!

Gardening for me has been a sanity saving well loved pastime of mine for many years.  From starting plants from seed in a makeshift set up in my basement to enjoying the fruits/vegetables of my labor.  The feel of the earth in my hands, the meditative calming effect of gardening is an integral part of who I am.  The joys of watching little seeds turn into tiny plants, then produce lovely flowers and food... priceless.  The habit of taking food scraps and building a compost bin which then turns into beautiful soil which helps enrich the earth, feed the plants and use what many people consider garbage, a deeply ingrained habit.  My gardening has been more a passion of mine than a pastime. I've even seriously considered trying to earn a living from it in the future.

Back to last years' gardening....I worked on this in my usual slow, meditative relaxing pace.... Meaning it took me  month of work to get things planted with the help of my all girl English Garden Club.  This was after some assistance of dorm students and staff, helping me throw out rocks, and dig out weeds and grass, a very big undertaking....  I had also worked with the Eco Green Club at my school and set up compost bins in the yard.  It was gonna be a great gardening season!!!  Having found a carpenter where I could get free sawdust to dig into the sand was another plus.  The sandy rocky weedy patch needed all the help it could get!

I also planted in the big blue planters in front of the school.....Two large metal urn type planters painted a very bright blue which were mostly sporting trash and acted as large cigarette ash trays.  Those took a long time for the seedlings to germinate, and it was a constant battle with birds pecking in them for the seeds and moisture and kids throwing trash in them, adults throwing cigarette butts there.... heavy sigh.  Eventually the planters yielded some nice salad fixins' which I enjoyed:)

The garden itself provided me with lots of fresh peas, which I froze and just finished eating, as well as some green beans and great quantities of fresh lettuce, spinach and other salad ingredients which wa,s savored by myself and my site mates.

Unfortunately, only one side of the garden was planted after I tripped on a tent line in early June and bruised my ribs..... gardening was minimal to say the least....It takes a good six weeks for ribs to heal up nicely enough to return to business as usual.  Ow.

On the down side, the garden was not the thing of beauty which I envisioned..  I did have other challenges along the way, including a helpful school worker who took all the dried animal dung the Eco Green Club and I had collected and put in the beds and threw it in the trash, never to be seen again.  Talk about cultural differences.... I have to laugh about it even though I was livid at the time. I believe there is an old blog called, Who took my Sh*t.....Gardening is not a very popular hobby here and I finally got the workers to understand that if there was animal dung in the garden it was because I intentionally put it there....... Actually a plastic greenhouse is pretty much the concept of gardening here, and a wise idea with all the erratic weather, and the extremely windy conditions, even in summer.  No greenhouse for me; I'm doing it old school.

The dozens of tomato plants which I lovingly started in my apartment, hardened off in the windy out of doors and planted did not thrive.  By September most of them had fruits which promptly died in a frost September 10th... Ugh...

This year has provided it's own unique challenges....  By late fall, I realized my compost bins (made of wire fencing and secured by bricks) were gone, vanished, disappeared.  I took my small bucket of compost to throw it in and it was gone.  I never did find out who took the compost, where the bins went, etc.  I can only hope someone actually used it to help grow plants but I suspect not.

Many of my little flower seedlings were blighted by aphids/plant lice and I'm not sure that was quite worth my efforts this year.  I hope to salvage some of them for transplanting outdoors, but just not too sure.

The month of May has been mostly warm, so I decided  to start the planters about two weeks ago.  I lovingly mixed together many flower seed packets and threw in some seeds I'd collected from last years flowers, mixing in a little sand.  I took a bag of goat poo I'd collected in the winter and mixed it into the planters, wet them well, sprinkled seed then covered it all, adding a little more water.  On top I placed my own little plastic greenhouse cover, consisting of at least a dozen small plastic bags, cut and taped together.  The plastic was then secured down on top of the planter with large rocks along the sides.  I was very pleased with myself, knowing I'd figured how to keep trash, birds, kids and cigarette butts out, and the flowers would start growing much quicker and better than ever.  Gardening here in Mongolia has caused me to question my gardening skills and abilities....in spite of my highly successful, productive and beautiful gardens of the past.

Well, it wasn't two days later that I could be heard yelling Who took my freakin' plastic?! to my English speaking counterpart on the phone...Not one of my finer moments......I then asked her to pass the word to the workers that I put it there to hold in moisture and heat and keep out kids and birds.... Several days later I made other plastic covers which have now remained for three days.  Oh happy day....maybe these flowers will eventually grow!!!

Two days ago noticing the many weeds that had recently sprung up in the garden, I decided I'd better get out there and start weeding.  Friday was my lucky day as I lazily began weeding, my amazing c/p Altai, the dorm teacher asked me if I needed students help.  Yes, please I said and for the next three hours a couple dozen dorm kids came and went, digging, weeding and throwing out rocks.

boys shoveling the dirt

the process of carrying the bags of soil, dumping and digging/spreading was lots of hard work!

this looks so much better than the rocky sand!

are we done yet?

So after hours of me squatting in the gardening, heaving the shovel and demonstrating the easiest way to dig, plus the smoothing of the soil, man did I ever work out muscles that have long been forgotten this winter.... In fact, I've been more sedentary this winter than last and have found some of that weight I lost my first year here.

So Altai c/p to the rescue again... She asked if I needed help again on Saturday and I said yes, at 11 we need to spread and work in the soil/dung brought from the countryside.  Go figure, I was sore and grouchy and a real slave driver that day....  Hoisting the bags of stuff was not the boys idea of fun, but they did it, and did a great job of it too!!!!  Thank goodness because this would've taken me weeks to complete at my leisurely pace.  Mind you, back in Ohio I would've been out there working on the garden plot early in April and would be enjoying peas and salad by now.

So tired as I was, I was not very patient on Saturday.   I think I was wearing my Mean Teacher Face as I tried to show students what to do, and answer a million questions.....  Most then wanted to plant something.....seeds on the big side, and potato tubers on the other. and they did!.....It was interesting and aggravating to me to continually tell kids not to stomp all over everywhere.  With so many students coming and going, they didn't realize where things were planted....  Really, I need to focus on their enthusiasm and willingness to take part; a great sign they may be interested in gardening after I leave

 I started contemplating what gardening is to me - a solitary hobby that I enjoy when done by myself and at a very leisurely pace.  No wonder I didn't garner my usual enjoyment from this weekends' garden experience, though I really need to cultivate my attitude of gratitude .. for all the work and participation added by the kids.  During this ah-ha moment, I realized I need to share this and not be so selfish about gardening.  Later that afternoon I put white yarn as row markers (hopefully the wind won't blow it all away) and will hope that if the garden is in bloom when the kids return to school September 1st (I'll be long gone by about 5 weeks by then) that they will be motivated to garden more.  After all, this is supposed to be their garden.

Good bye and Good Luck!

Like most people, I really dislike goodbyes. . . the emotions evoked by kind words, hugs and lots of last time hand holding. . I successfully avoided emotional goodbyes when I left America, but it's impossible here.  When I left home and joined the Peace Corps, I figured I'd keep in touch with and see my family and friends again (god willing and the creek don't rise..and this has been so), but not likely with my Mongolian loved ones.   I may never pass this way again.

wonderful thank you gifts from the dorm:)

Last year I missed the fact that younger students finish school earlier and I didn't have a proper goodbye with them.  This year I planned ahead since I know it's my last opportunity.


So we had a fun filled and exhausting (for me) day together.  Our last cooking club made lots of french fries which we all enjoyed with coca cola!  The fries were soggy and not up to my expectations, though the students enjoyed them!  Not a healthy snack, but an American one.

After me giving out some hand made awards for club members (garden, knitting, cooking and arts and crafts), photos, and a lottery drawing for many art items, some books and DVD's, etc (where everyone got at least one thing), the students then gave me some beautiful gifts and performed!  I'm including a few of the videos here; they are great, just like the kids!  There were some tears from me, especially when two of the girls gave short speeches in English about how much they all love me and will miss me.  I'm getting misty just writing this now!


After a quick soup supper at 7:45 p.m., we headed to the children's park across town.  Though the rides were closed, kids ran and jumped on them for photos.  We finished up by going to the flower park with the huge statue to Zanabazar, famous Mongolian sculptor and spiritual leader.  As we walked back toward the dorm, I casually said goodnight as I went down the alley to my apartment.  Perhaps I'll see some of them again before they leave to return home for the summer, run into them at Nadaam, or that may have been our last goodbye.   I love them all and will miss them, and bid them goodbye and good luck!

  

Ring the Bell!

Bell Day as it's called in Mongolia, is actually graduation!  The differences don't end with the name either.  Here it's held weeks before the school year finishes, and includes graduation from 5th, 9th and 11th grades.

each homeroom has their own uniform, this is 9D

All the students attend, rather like the opening day ceremony September 1st.  There are many speeches, interlaced with musical performances.  I especially love that different grades and homerooms have their own particular uniforms.  The 9th grade class of my teacher friend Chukka, chose a smart skirt suit for the girls with a lovely blue trim.  Boys wear shiny suits!

these younger students all have matching jackets and white shirts

these 9 class girls have cute plaid skirts, ties and jackets

The Mongolian school system has been changing to become more Westernized, albeit a 12 year education, instead of the current 10.  Right now kids attend separate kindergarten, then grades 1 - 5.  Grade 6 is to be added in the coming years, so right now 5th grade graduation moves a student from elementary school.

graduates sport their medals/awards

dorm student graduating from 9th grade

Grades 7 -9 are middle or secondary school, so the 9th grade graduation promotes a student to high school.  High school currently consists of grades 10 and 11.  Certain homerooms of students are earmarked for the change and will have the added years of education. 

Happy, me and Altai flanked by two graduating dorm guys!

only part of Happy's class, those that took English with me!

I spent a fun morning with my friend Happy's class of 11th grade graduates!  First the ceremony, then lots of picture taking in the classroom as well as a nostalgic lesson from a first grade teacher. 

requisite class photo on monastery steps

The students then continued on to lunch at the Wedding Palace, which I enjoyed with them.  At this point, I went home though they were going to the Horse Monument and many other photo op stops. The day's celebration was to conclude with a dance party at school.  As I told Happy's class,"Congratulations class of 2012!

My Apartment: A Love/Hate Relationship

Can I really have a relationship with my apartment?  Isn't hate a really strong word that I don't especially like, or like to use.....  No, (well maybe) to the first and yes to the second question.  However, my apartment/home/place of refuge/rest and relaxation for the past two years has been at times,  both a blessing and a curse.

ah the windows!!!

some of my seedlings

This apartment has been so good to me in so many ways... it's convenient location, close to both my school and dorm, shopping, and the town center; it's excellent heating system, it's coziness, it's toilet and cold running water, it's south facing windows (heavy sigh).   I have been blessed with water I don't have to fetch (like so many people without running water who have to have to cart or carry jerry cans to the local well, fill them up, pay for them and carry them home here), electricity that mostly works, a functioning toilet (though it didn't work for periods of time at least it's not an outhouse!), heat that I don't have to work for (making and tending a fire like most house and ger dwellers) and those glorious windows which have allowed me to grow many plants, enjoy fresh herbs and salads and bask in the abundant sunshine!

Now the biggest complaint/pain/hate part of this relationship, is my front door.... innocuous enough looking, isn't it?  Well, let me tell you that this door has caused me much cursing and anxiety, though conversely has sorta helped in the area of patience.  The problem is the door is a little warped, and the working lock is that bottom one..... It's not centered on the door, the locks are poorly made, and currently I am on replacement lock #9.... That's right; in 20 months of living in this apartment, my locks have a shelf life of a little over two months!  I think every single male employee of the dorm and school have assisted in changing a lock.  I have a reputation as the foreigner who keeps breaking her door lock:(  The worst times have been when I was away and others were watering my plants and the lock broke... Yes, this has occurred 3 times... Yikes!  Not only a pain in the arse for me, but also my thoughtful plant minding friends as well.

The bathroom is not a bathroom at all.  In fact what I have is a toilet in a closet.  Yes, I guess the Brits would call it a water closet.  Exactly what it is.  The large pink tub I placed on the floor is called a tumpen and it's what I bathe in.  Filling the tub with partly boiling hot water then mixing in cold tap water to get to just the proper bathing temp, I ladle the water on me with the red scoop in the tub.  Ah..some days I long for a shower.  Many apartments here do have showers, and some of my friends reside in them.  I am just not comfortable showering in someone else's house.  To the left of the toilet is the water valve which is currently leaking again and usually has a big bowl under it to catch the drips.  This valve actually started dripping last spring after I thoughtfully turned the water off and on with it, as my kitchen tap (my only sink) broke yet again (it's on number 4) and rather than waste water, I'd shut it off.  Because it was soon summer vacation, and I was lax in nagging to quickly get it fixed (the art of which I have mastered with the front door lock), I ended up using the valve all summer.  My visiting sister will attest to this inconvenience.  So, now the pipe leaks again, after having it repaired once as well as the toilet.  The pull/flush on the toilet was finally replaced after it was fixed three times. 


Speaking of the kitchen sink, I didn't include a photo of it, but suffice it to say, it's so small, that I don't even wash dishes in it, though it's good for washing your hands, brushing your teeth and even washing your hair.  Thank goodness for cold running water!

the electrical hub in my entry way

This electrical box thingy is very scary looking but just a brief glance into the world of electricity in a developing country.  Mind you, my apartment building is old and built in the Soviet era.    Thus far, I have had the following electrical calamities:  The light switch in the bedroom pulled out of the wall and disconnected, twice the only outlet in my room has malfunctioned (right now it's pulled out of the wall because it's clear across the room from my bed and the long extension cord was stretched just a little too much),once the same outlet had a sudden jolt of electricity and fried.  Both my kitchen outlets have fried at separate times, and had to be replaced.  The kitchen light (my bare bulb) zapped and stopped working .  OK, fairly minor incidents....


 The framed picture is of the 4 lucky animals (Buddhist), an elephant, monkey, hare and bird and the multi colored hadags (scarves) are to bring good luck.  I think they are working.... My apartment hasn't burned down, totally flooded or been broken into.  It really has been a home, sweet home to me:)